A CINEPHILE’S INTERRAIL ROUTE
Paris is surely any cinephile’s dream destination. One prediction you can make about almost every film buff that has set foot in the French capital is that they will, surely, have visited the renowned Montmartre cafe from Amelie.
Last summer, after a year of waitressing and weariness in my home town, before university and the supposed beginning of the rest of my life, I too cracked a creme brûlée at the Amelie cafe and peered through the grimy glass of the slightly creepy shrine to Jean-Pierre Jeunet’s beloved 2001 film. Positioned aptly next to les toilettes, the dingy and dimly lit cabinet houses various paraphernalia from the film, including a garden gnome and that kitsch talking pig lamp (if you know you know).
I had just bought an interrail pass - 15 travel days, 2 months, 33 countries. This was my first stop.
I decided to visit a film location at each destination of the trip. It was wonderful, and allowed me to step into the magic of my favourite films, as well as taking me to beautiful and hidden areas of Europe’s capital cities.
Now I’ve expanded this little ‘movie-map’ of Europe to include further locations that will, I hope, fit varying routes or trips. Below is a list of recommendations by city.
So maybe you will be able to make an indulgent little movie pilgrimage on your travels too, or, for the purists amongst you, perhaps commit to the entire route…
PARIS
Being the home of the French New Wave and so much film history, Paris has countless movie locations.
Simply walking down the street I felt I was taking celluloid steps, the air fizzed with movie magic. I’ll admit I did become an annoying faux Parisienne during my two days in the city, sashaying along the Champs-Élysées, thinking I was Jean Seberg and forgetting I was wearing a bum-bag stuffed with maps and sun cream - not so chic.
In Paris, even catching the metro or visiting the Eiffel Tower ticks off shooting locations including Micmacs and The 400 Blows. The list of locations could go on and on. But here are a few that I enjoyed visiting.
Café des Deux Moulins, 15 Rue Lepic 75018 Paris, France
The aforementioned Amelie cafe is a quaint destination and very much ‘as seen’ in the film. It’s also within walking distance of the Sacre Coure, another of the film’s locations, as well as that of One Fine Morning and The 400 Blows.
THE LOUVRE, 75001 Paris, France
The Louvre, of course, boasts a magnificent and world-renowned art collection - but true cinephiles will perhaps get a kick out of its place in French movie history too. Bernardo Bertolucci’s trio of ‘60s teenage cineasts in The Dreamers certainly do.
In the film, Isabelle, Theo and Matthew challenge themselves to beat the 9 minute 43 second run through the museum performed by Francois Truffaut’s protagonists in Band a Part. They succeed and beat the record, but perhaps the more important point is: will you?
Buttes Chaumont park, 75019 Paris, France
This beautiful park in Northeastern Paris is the backdrop to a chance encounter and fumbled romance in Eric Rohmer’s The Aviator’s Wife.
The park is also a location in Gaspar Noe’s cult favourite Love, which filmed in the Temple de la Sibylle (above), a miniature Roman temple in the middle of the park.
See the BFI’s ‘The Eric Rohmer movie guide to Paris’ for more of Rohmer’s Paris locations.
AV. DES Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris, France
“New York Herald Tribune!” calls Jean Seberg as she sells papers and walks-and-talks with Jean-Paul Belmondo’s Michael on the Champs Elysees in Truffaut’s New Wave classic Breathless. The avenue also features in Taken (2008).
Or, nearby, you could walk the steps of Audrey Hepburn as she meets Cary Grant at a marionette show at the Champs-Elysees Gardens in Charade (1963).
VIENNA
I made sure to arrive in Vienna on a Saturday so I could visit the Third Man Museum, which is only open one day a week, but so worth the trip. I ended up running there after a late train led to sweaty and confused U-Bahn navigation, with my (very) rusty German providing little help. But even while running in a slight panic towards the museum, I began to realise what a beautiful city I was in.
I shouldn’t have been surprised, of course. The stunning architecture ranging from baroque to renaissance lends Vienna an immensely romantic and cinematic character, as Richard Linklater famously captured in Before Sunrise.
(I regret to report, however, that I myself did not meet a young Ethan Hawke type on the train and spend all night walking and talking in the bars and avenues of the city. This was much to my disappointment.)
Alt & Neu Records, Windmühlgasse 10, 1060 WIEN, Austria
This record shop from Before Sunrise is still open in the centre of Vienna. Here Jesse and Celine listen to Kath Bloom’s ‘Come Here’ in the booth together, and the current owners keep Bloom’s record to hand for film fans to play.
Palais Pallavicini, Josefsplatz 5, 1010 Wien, Austria
The statuesque entrance of this palatial building will be immediately recognisable to fans of the 1949 noir thriller The Third Man as Harry Lime’s apartment.
Written by Graham Greene, directed by Carol Reed and starring Orson Welles, the film is regarded by many as one of the greatest British films of all time, and was shot entirely in Vienna.
You can find a list of all of the locations from the film here.
Wiener Riesenrad (FERRIS WHEEL), Gaudeegasse 1, 1020 Wien, PRATER, Austria
Perhaps a more distinctive image from the The Third Man, however, is that of the giant ferris wheel, upon which protagonist Holly Martins (Joseph Cottons) speaks to the enigmatic figure of Harry Lime (Orson Welles) for the first time.
Jesse and Celine also visit the Prater fairground and ride the ferris wheel in Before Sunrise. It’s a brilliantly cinematic way to see the magnificent skyline.
The Third Man Museum, Preßgasse 25, 1040 WIEN, austria
The Third Man Museum is a true love-letter to the film and a treasure trove of movie memorabilia, including Trevor Howard’s original script with his hand-written notes and interviews with Orson Welles. There’s also a great history section with archives on post WWII Vienna.
I was lucky enough to meet owners Karin and Gerhard and they were so lovely, and kindly gave me the museum poster to keep. I carried it with me for the next 6 stops of my trip, carefully balancing it in hostel lockers and overhead shelves on trains (and nearly lost it on my final day in a very stressful episode at Gare du Nord security, but I won’t go into that). Now it hangs in my room and serves as a constant reminder of the magic and warmth of that wonderful museum.
VENICE
The serpentine allies and canals of Venice are both enchanting and haunting on screen, featuring as the spellbinding backdrop for a range of genres from romance to horror.
Chiesa di San Nicolò dei Mendicoli, Campo, Calle S. Nicolò, 1907, 30123 Venezia VE, Italy
The church which Donald Sutherland’s John is restoring in Don’t Look Now is Chiesa di San Nicolò dei Mendicoli. Roeg wanted to shoot an authentic portrait of the city in its less touristy corners, and visiting the church today still takes you on a walk away from the busy centre and to a more quiet section of the city.
You can find a comprehensive list of the locations from Don’t Look Now here.
Piazza San Marco, 30100 Venezia VE, Italy
In this majestic piazza you can not only visit St Mark's Basilica and Doge’s Palace, but also dine just like Katherine Hepburn in David Lean’s charming sunny romance film Summertime. The square also features in Don’t Look Now, Casino Royale and The Talented Mr Ripley (above, where Matt Damon, Gwyneth Paltrow and James Rebhorn sit outside Caffe Florian, which is still open to customers).
ROME
Rome, Open City was the first Italian Neorealist film to gain international recognition, winning Grand Price at Cannes. Rome is, indeed, central to Italian cinema, with so many locations that you could even tour only Fellini’s Rome locations while visiting city, using this map.
Piazza di Trevi, 00187 Roma RM, Italy
Anita Ekberg in the Trevi fountain (above) is one of the most iconic images of Italian cinema.
Fellini’s La Dolce Vita, about the beauty and darker underbelly of swinging modern Roman life, marked a turning point in Italian film, along with with Antonioni’s L’avventura. The baroque Roman fountain is surely an unmissable destination.
Piazza di Porta Portese, 00153 Roma RM, Italy
Porta Portese market features in the classic neorealist film Bicycle Thieves, when protagonists Antonio and Bruno run through the market after the eponymous thief. The vibrant market is the largest in Rome and an essential stops for tourists and cinephiles alike.
Mouth of Truth, Piazza della Bocca della Verità, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
Roman Holiday, the beloved 1953 film starring Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck, is like a whistle stop tour of Rome, with endless locations to choose from. But my favourite location from the film, and perhaps the most well known, is The Mouth of Truth, where Joe pretends to have his hand bitten off.
TURIN
Turin, the home of Italy’s National Museum of Cinema, Nutella and, most importantly for this list, British comedy caper The Italian Job.
Piazza Gran Madre di Dio, 4, 10131 Torino TO, Italy
The Church steps that Michael Caine’s heist crew drive down in The Italian Job chase scene are still standing in the centre of Turin.
Palazzo Carignano, Turin
This baroque Palazzo, which houses the National Museum of the Risorgimento, is where the minis unload the gold as while police attempt to break down the oak doors.
You can find a full list of locations here.
OTHER DESTINATIONS:
CREMA: Crema, the town from Luca Guadagnino’s 2018 coming of age film Call Me By Your Name, is a 3 hour train journey from Turin.
ISCHIA: A high speed train can take you from Rome to Naples in an hour, and just a 2 1/2 hour ferry ride away is Ischia, the idyllic island where much of The Talented Mr Ripley was filmed. You can find a guide to these Talented Mr Ripley locations, as well as those in Rome, Naples and Venice here.
MADRID: Pedro Almodovar fans can have a field day in Madrid, where many of his films were shot. You can find a list of Almodovar locations here.
OSLO: This one would be a bit out of the way for my route, I have to admit. But for anyone planning a Scandinavian interrail or a trip to Oslo, the locations from The Worst Person in the World are mapped out brilliantly here.
Hanshaugen Park seems particularly worthwhile and recognisable from the film, where Julie and Eivind sit at the benches looking out over the city and fall in love. And it’s on the corner of St. Hallvards gate that Eivind and Julie say their goodbyes after the party, not knowing if they'll ever meet again.
LONDON: I departed for Paris from Kings Cross St Pancras and, as my first stop and the location of my soon-to-be ‘home’ (University College London), I didn’t stop to look around London, or visit any film locations. But once I was at university in September I immediately consulted The Guardian’s list of Soho film locations, and still drink at The Toucan, pretending I’m Eloise in Last Night in Soho.
A NOTE ON BOLOGNA -
TEENAGE FLICKS RECOMMENDS: IL CINEMA RITROVATO
I simply couldn’t publish this post without a quick note on Il Cinema Ritrovato, the archival festival which screens a brilliantly curated selection of old movies and exciting new restorations. The June festival was the highlight of my interrail, watching classic films with equally excited cinephiles whilst drinking wine and eating pasta - I mean…!!!?
Every evening a film is screened in the main Piazza - next to the cathedral and under the stars - with introductions from filmmakers including Wim Wenders and Luca Guadagnino.
And it’s only €15.00 for young people aged 13-19 (for a pass that grants access to all films and talks)!
You can find more details here.